The legendary Laing. Photo by localpedia
“Food with spice is food with soul.”
Venturing into the culinary realm of Bicolano cuisine, one will discover the region’s prominent use of sili (chili peppers) and gata (coconut milk) on their more popular specialties – Bicol Express, Laing, and Kinunot. Known for its fiery dishes, the region offers a distinct style in culinary creations that people from other areas find unique and delectable.
Coconut Milk and Chili Connection
Bicol Express is a spicy and savory pork dish stewed in coconut milk and lots of chili peppers. Laing is another famous dish made with dried taro leaves simmered in a rich mixture of coconut milk and chili peppers. Kinunot is made with a combination of flaked pagi (stingray), moringa leaves and chili peppers simmered in rich and creamy coconut milk. Kinunot was used to be made also with shark’s meat but catching shark now is being prohibited so stingray meat is now the staple in this Bicolano favorite.
Bicolanos would venture to say that the two ingredients (coconut milk and chili peppers) provide balance to the other. The spiciness of the chilis balances the sweetness of the coconut milk or is it the other way around? Whatever it is, the combination of the two gives Bicolano dishes that extra zing that leaves a lasting impression in one’s taste buds.
Why the penchant for coconuts and chilis? Historically, the Bicol Region is one of the top producers of coconuts in the Philippines. Data from The Philippine Coconut Authority (PCA) showed that the coconut area in the region is about 450,000 hectares. The abundance of coconuts and chili peppers plays a role in shaping the vibrant and unique taste of Bicolano dishes.
The Kinunot, a treasured Bicolano specialty. Photo by Brazal.dang
Bicol is also known for abundant rainfall, fertile soil, and active volcanoes (with Mayon Volcano being the most famous). These are all contributory to the cultivation of different chili varieties in the area. With an abundant supply of coconuts and chili peppers, the prominent use of these two ingredients has become a defining feature of the Bicolano culinary identity. The combination of the two creates a unique harmony of creaminess and spiciness that sets Bicolano cuisine apart from the other regional Filipino dishes.
Bicolanos more “Southeast Asian” than other Filipinos?
The pronounced use of chili and coconut milk echoes the flavors of Southeast Asia. Similar dishes have been found in neighboring countries like Malaysia, Indonesia, and Thailand. This fiery characteristic of the food aligns it closely with the food of other Southeast Asian neighbors and sets it apart from the cuisine of other regions in the Philippines.
Filipino cuisine in other parts of the country is characterized as less spicy and are more influenced by Chinese and Spanish cuisine. Other regions use chili as add-on to their cuisine, but Bicolano food uses it as a central feature in its dishes as manifested in a meal such as the Bicol Express.
The iconic Bicol Express
The use of coconut milk can also be found in Southeast Asian meals such as the Rendang in Indonesian and Malay food and in the various curry dishes in Thailand. This ingredient gives the food that velvety, creamy and rich texture and distinct taste noticeable in both these Southeast Asian and Bicolano savory masterpieces.
Food and Celebration
Each province in the Bicol Region has its own festival. Each festival is characterized by colorful costumes, parades, and dances to celebrate local culture. In each of these festivities, an essential part is a food extravaganza celebrating the region’s culinary heritage where the traditional delicacies of each province are given prominence.
Such attention highlights the important role food plays in Bicolano culture, as it reflects the Bicolano’s resilience, creativity, and love for bold flavors. Bicolano food is a celebration in itself.
A must-visit for any food lover
The Bicol region offers a wide array of dishes not limited to the three mentioned above. There are other must-try dishes such as kandingga, pinangat, pancit bato, adobado, sili ice cream, and pili nuts. Food lovers worth their salt should put some spice in their lives and head on to the Bicol region and embark on a delicious journey through the region’s food specialties.
A trip to Bicol will never be complete if one is to miss out on a gastronomic experience provided by the region’s rich culinary heritage, where every bite tells a story of tradition, spice and innovation.